Then Fossa’s 54% dark milk chocolate with Yuzu Sea Salt, (£8.95/50g). This has cocoa from Tanzania and wonderful, chewy, yuzu (an Asia citrus fruit) peel. This was unexpectedly delicious and one tasting square turned to three before I squirrelled the whole bar away for later. It needs savouring, not least because of the cost. But it is very very, very good.
When I took pastry courses a number of years ago here in France and in Belgium, I tended to want to focus on the chocolate classes because – well…gosh darn it, I love it so much. We’ve become the best of friends over the years and I am never far from my bin of chocolate that I buy in bulk. (Although at some point, someone is going to have to do an intervention.) But I like cooking and creating with chocolate just as much as I do eating it and homemade chocolate bars are simple and wonderful gifts. And if entertaining at home, it’s nice to bring out a homemade tablet that you’ve made yourself to serve with after-dinner coffee or glasses of Armagnac or Cognac.
The good thing is that you don’t need fancy – or expensive – chocolate molds to make chocolate bars at home. I have a stack of polycarbonate ones from my professional days of yore. But anything made of plastic will do. Since I can’t bring myself to throw away anything that might be reused, I pulled out a stack of cream cheese containers that are neat little rectangles and I used those this time around.
Ideally, the chocolate you use should be tempered. It’s a little bit of extra time, but it’s basically just three steps: Melt the chocolate to a certain temperature, let it cool, then bring it back up to a rather precise temperature. You can read more at my post, How to Temper Chocolate, or get a more complete explanation in The Great Book of Chocolate. But in brief, tempering keeps chocolate from “blooming” or getting white streaks when cool.
Tempering also makes the chocolate cool faster and raises the melting temperature of the solidified chocolate, which is why you can pick up a chocolate bar or a filled chocolate with your hands and it doesn’t melt right away when you touch it.
The good news, and a well-guarded secret to some, is that chocolate doesn’t have to be tempered for candy making. However the caveat is that you must keep the chocolate refrigerated until shortly before ready to eat. So you can make chocolate bars with your favorite melted chocolate, and keep them in the refrigerator without a problem. (Ideally, chocolate should not be refrigerated for a long time as the humidity in the refrigerator will ruin it. Lingering odors from other food items in there can also have an adverse effect on the flavor of the chocolate. But for a few days, it’s generally not a problem.)
The great thing about homemade chocolate bars is that you can add anything you want to them; toasted nuts, glazed orange peel, cocoa nibs, candied peanuts, flakes of sea salt or a bit of spice, pumpkin seeds, pretzels, dried apricots, cherries, or figs – even shards of caramels, thin mints or other broken up candy, or candy bars. Basically, if you can ask if it can be used…it can be!
I would advise against using fresh fruits or berries as they will likely become damp unless eaten shortly after they’re used. If you want to flavor the chocolate, you can add a few drops of peppermint, citrus, or another pure oil (you can’t use anything with water or alcohol in it, such as extracts, as they will make the chocolate seize and become unusable), stirring it in right before you pour or spoon the melted chocolate into the molds.
You can use anything as a mold if it’s made of plastic. Metal molds will work, but you will need to temper the chocolate, which shrinks the chocolate slightly when cooled so the bars will slip out of the metal molds. It’s difficult to pinpoint exactly how much chocolate you’ll need. But as an example, for the 4 bars I made, I used about 8 ounces (230g). But the good news is that you can just melt what you think you might need, then any leftover chocolate can be poured on a sheet of parchment paper or plastic wrap and left to cool to be reused for another baking project.
Melt the chocolate in a clean, dry bowl set over a pan of barely simmering water. If you want to temper the chocolate (see above.) While the chocolate is melting, gather and prepare any ingredients you want to put on the bars.
Pour or spoon a layer of chocolate into your molds. Rap them on the counter a few times to distribute the chocolate evenly and release any air bubbles, then working quickly, top with any kinds of nuts, dried fruits, or other ingredients that you wish and press them in slightly.
Immediately put the bars in the refrigerator until firm. If tempered chocolate is used, it shouldn’t take more than five minutes for them to firm up. Otherwise the chocolate will take longer.
na: I recommend that if tempering, people use a dark chocolate that is in the 55-70% range. Higher percentage chocolates (or bean-to-bar chocolates) can be higher in acid and behave differently. If simply melting the chocolate and using it untempered, any chocolate should work just fine – including milk or white chocolate.
This looks like so much fun and I’m wondering why it never occurred to me that I could make my own chocolate bars!! Now I’ll be on the lookout for little molds — what a great party favor…
These photos are as mouthwatering as ever, and what a great idea! People always reccomend giving this sort of thing as gifts, but I think they’d be too hard to let go!
Wowza, these look fantastic! I made some bars a few years ago to give as gifts and lo and behold, not one of them made it out of my kitchen. I ate them all. Guess it was the only child in me…Might have to give your recipe a go and this time, I promise (fingers crossed) they will make it to friends.
In a comment above you recommend 55-70% cocoa content when tempering. I have on occasion used 100% chocolate from Pralus for example and it didn’t turn out. Got all streaked with white (cocoa butter?). Same thing has happened with other bars here and there. Do you know what causes the white streaks? The bars still taste fine, but are crumbly.
100% cacao isn’t considered chocolate – it’s usually called chocolate liquor, even through it contains not liquor. In France, they just call it pâte de cacao (cocoa bean paste). The composition of it is completely different than bittersweet chocolate, which contains additional cocoa butter and sugar. They’ll be crumbly because the chocolate is drier without the additional fat & sugar. It’s usually used in baking, not for eating (although I like it!)
(If you like the eat 100%, Michel Cluizel makes a lovely little bar, Noir Infiniti, that’s 99% and has a touch of sugar, and some other subtle flavors add it, although it’s hard to get outside of France.)
Best BarA little trick I learned in a chocolate class is that instead of tempering, you can add a tiny bit of vegetable oil to the chocolate before melting it (a teaspoon or so for 8 oz). It helps give the chocolate the characteristics of tempered chocolate without the actual process, though it doesn’t last as long as actual tempered chocolate.
Yes, sometimes you can add vegetable shortening or a some people work with a product called Paramount crystals (to name one) that helps stabilizes the fat so you don’t necessarily need to temper. There are also things called “summer coatings” or “coatings” which are similar to chocolate (and they contain chocolate, and some are colored and used for decoration), and are designed so you don’t need to temper them after you melt them down. The problem is that most of those things don’t taste very good, so I prefer not to use them. But they are interesting to know about.
I have tried Cluizel’s Noir Infini, but prefer Domori’s IL100% or IL100% Criollo. Pralus’ 100% is also sold for eating as is. I’ll stick to 70% when tempering for now, even though I have had trouble with some brands (Idilio for example).
Do you have a recipe (either in a book or a link somewhere) for making your own chocolate from scratch? I’ve experimented with various combinations using cacao butter, cacao paste, coconut oil, different types of sweetener, cocoa powder (dark, regular, “raw”)… I like them all, but always am up for something new.
I have been making chocolates in your manner for some years and have always found it hard to keep the chocolate at 91 degrees after bringing it to the prescribed temperature in the 80s: lots of rushing to use it at exactly the right temperature. I recently got a sous vide and used that: I poured the chocolate into Ziploc bags, popped them into a 91 degree bath, where they gradually came to temperature. Then, when I was ready, I cut a corner at the bottom of the bag and piped the chocolate. Perfect! Here is a post on my blog about this:
Lisa: I’ve worked (and played) a bit in a few chocolate factories, but have not made chocolate at home. You can buy cocoa nibs and grind them in a spice grinder but for more information, the site Chocolate Alchemy is a good source for people who want to venture into the world of making chocolate on a small scale, or at home.
Sissy: Thanks! I don’t have a favorite but do have a category of some of my favorites listed in the right sidebar under “David’s Favorite Posts” where I keep ’em.
Robert: That’s a great technique (provided you have a sous-vide machine) but it’s a spot-on idea. Some folks recommend keeping tempered chocolate on a hot water bottle to keep it the right temperature for dipping, although it doesn’t bring it up to the right temperature like our technique does. My only concern is about getting water in contact with the chocolate. You must have to clean the bag very (very!) thoroughly. I used to have a Revolation home chocolate tempering machine, which worked well, although they’re kind of pricey. (I’d met the inventor, and I was fortunate that he gave me one to try.)
It is closing on 1 am here in Japan but now I am craving dark chocolate with some dried fruit. Not my typical flavor profile, but I can taste it from your photos. Damn you!! Got all the stuff but not willing to do it before I go to bed. Compromise….bite of chocolate/bite of dried fruit. Works for me in the interim.
When I was a little girl, my uncle had a contract with a large chocolate & candy manufacturer and took me on an “all access” tour of the factory that included looking in on the chocolate tempering process and being handed fresh-off-the-line pieces of all sorts of amazing confections, most of which I took a tiny nibble of and tried to hold on to for later savoring. My mother did not appreciate the melty “prize” she found in my windbreaker that evening. I’ve been chasing the taste/smell memory with my own chocolate ever since… sans the whole chocolatey-pocket thing. Thanks something I can add to my collection!
Your chocolates look amazing David. The idea of making your own chocolate really is an appealing one. I am going to have to start working towards making this a reality.
I just started molding chocolate myself recently and I was amazed at how something so easy to accomplish could sollicite such a “WOW” from others. Your idea of adding nuts and dried fruit is a keeper!
Ai yai yai… 1.30am in Singapore and I’ve just seen this post. Wonder what chocolate I have in my wine fridge? Please put up a warning at the top of a similar post next time, something along the lines of “Beware, will cause intense cravings” ! ;-)
I’m still on dessert sabbatical & I’m not a chocolate lover but this looks amazing. Anyone have great ideas for wrapping these bars for gifting? I’m totally doing these to ship to recipients next holiday season & I want to give them a try before that.
David, I made batches as Christmas gifts using the silicon moulds that are now available so cheaply (our local Gifi and Kandy often have them). My ‘bars’ were individual, about 15mm x 30mm, and I used chopped nuts, glacé and dried fruit and peel, and a few flicks of edible gold leaf. They looked very elegant and I’ll definitely do them again.
If you are using tempered chocolate, do you need to put it in the fridge at all to set or can you just leave it at room temperature until it sets? Thank you!